smallholder farmers

Description

David Hong of Green Bean Asia is putting coffees in front of us that make me rethink some things. I’ve carried a bias against Indonesian and, honestly, a lot of Southeast Asian coffees for a long time. Too often, they’re earthy, inconsistent, or just a little tired from the way they’re traditionally handled. This one doesn’t do that. It’s floral and juicy, with fruit, chocolate, and a bright citrus snap. Crisp, creamy, and dialed in. It doesn’t just stand apart; it opens your eyes.

This lot comes from smallholder farmers in West Java working incredibly small plots, averaging just about half a hectare. These are compact shaded farms, planted in agroforestry systems where coffee grows alongside other vegetation and benefits from shade. Agroforestry supports soil health, protects water resources, increases biodiversity, and helps buffer the effects of climate change. It’s a more sustainable way to farm, but it also demands more attention and work. On farms this small, everything is hands-on, and the level of care required shows in the cup.

Instead of the more traditional wet-hulled and earthed approach, West Java-Sunda Coucal coffee is thoughtful from the start.Careful cherry selection, 84-hour anaerobic fermentation, controlled drying on raised beds. It’s clean, expressive, and shows what’s possible when producers think beyond “we’ve always done it this way” and take control of quality.

We’ve gotten to know Green Bean Asia over the past couple of years. David’s been steadily chipping away at my old assumptions, finding coffees that are thoughtful, precise, and surprising in the best possible way. This is one of those. It’s not just a great cup, it’s a reframe. A reminder that there’s a lot more going on in this part of the world than I’ve given it credit for.

More on Southeast Asian Coffee Here - Coffee Break Ep.2 - ft. David Hong (founder of Green Bean Asia)

Text from Big Shoulders Coffee's listing.